{"id":83020,"date":"2025-12-15T15:13:55","date_gmt":"2025-12-15T15:13:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cofb.org\/?p=83020"},"modified":"2025-12-22T15:17:01","modified_gmt":"2025-12-22T15:17:01","slug":"novetats-i-tendencies-en-actius-cosmetics-en-una-nova-edicio-del-forum-dermoexpert","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cofb.org\/ca\/2025\/12\/15\/novetats-i-tendencies-en-actius-cosmetics-en-una-nova-edicio-del-forum-dermoexpert\/","title":{"rendered":"Novetats i tend\u00e8ncies en actius cosm\u00e8tics en una nova edici\u00f3 del F\u00f2rum Dermoexpert"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

El passat 27 de novembre, el Col\u00b7legi de Farmac\u00e8utics de Barcelona (COFB) <\/strong>va acollir una nova edici\u00f3 del F\u00f2rum Dermoexpert \u201cNovetats i tend\u00e8ncies en actius cosm\u00e8tics<\/strong>\u201d amb el patrocini de Bandi <\/a>i Segle<\/a>. La sessi\u00f3 va ser realitzada per Monika Heisig<\/strong>, dermat\u00f2loga adjunta del Servei de Dermatologia de l’Hospital Universitari General de Catalunya i membre de l\u2019equip m\u00e8dic de la Cl\u00ednica Dermik Barcelona; M\u00f3nica Lizondo<\/strong>, farmac\u00e8utica, cofundadora i CEO de SEGLE Biotech Skincare; i Anabel Vaquer<\/strong>, farmac\u00e8utica especialitzada en cosm\u00e8tica i dermofarm\u00e0cia i responsable de desenvolupament del canal farm\u00e0cia de Bandi Cosmetics. La vocal de Dermofarm\u00e0cia i Productes Sanitaris del COFB, Marta Alcalde<\/strong>, va coordinar la formaci\u00f3 adre\u00e7ada a farmac\u00e8utics i farmac\u00e8utiques de farm\u00e0cia comunit\u00e0ria <\/strong>i t\u00e8cnics i t\u00e8cniques i auxiliars en farm\u00e0cia i parafarm\u00e0cia<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Marta<\/a>
Marta Alcalde, vocal de Dermofarm\u00e0cia i Productes Sanitaris del COFB, va coordinar el f\u00f2rum.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Els objectius <\/strong>de la formaci\u00f3 van ser con\u00e8ixer de les \u00faltimes tend\u00e8ncies<\/strong> en actius de dermocosm\u00e8tica<\/strong>, aprofundir en l\u2019activitat i els beneficis dels nous actius cosm\u00e8tics<\/strong> i incorporar en la recomanaci\u00f3 farmac\u00e8utica<\/strong> el coneixement sobre els nous actius cosm\u00e8tics<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La vocal de Dermofarm\u00e0cia i Productes Sanitaris del COFB, va recordar que \u201cdiferents expertes parlaran sobre un \u00e0mbit que avui en dia est\u00e0 a l\u2019abast de tothom, com s\u00f3n els p\u00e8ptids<\/strong>. Els laboratoris han aportat innovaci\u00f3 tecnol\u00f2gica<\/strong> pel que fa als actius cosm\u00e8tics<\/strong>, es venen nous productes<\/strong> i els farmac\u00e8utics han de con\u00e8ixer quins s\u00f3n, en qu\u00e8 es diferencien i quins efectes volen que tinguin els nostres pacients\u201d. En aquest sentit, Alcalde va destacar que la part que m\u00e9s interessa als farmac\u00e8utics \u00e9s \u201cpoder fer recomanacions als pacients<\/strong> pel que fa a aquestes rutines<\/strong>, si es poden mesclar entre elles, etc.\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Factors interns i externs lligats a l’envelliment de la pell<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Anabel Vaquer<\/strong>, farmac\u00e8utica especialitzada en cosm\u00e8tica i dermofarm\u00e0cia, va iniciar la seva presentaci\u00f3 partint de la base que \u201cel proc\u00e9s d\u2019envelliment de la pell \u00e9s irreversible, <\/strong>biol\u00f2gic i pel que tothom passar\u00e0 abans o despr\u00e9s. El concepte de wellaging<\/em><\/strong> comen\u00e7a a escoltar-se dins les oficines de farm\u00e0cia i \u00e9s un enfocament multidisciplinari <\/strong>que inclou prevenci\u00f3 i ingredients actius efica\u00e7os\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vaquer va assegurar que els farmac\u00e8utics <\/strong>tenen la capacitat \u201cd\u2019influir en l\u2019envelliment de la pell dels pacients<\/strong>. Hi ha molts factors interns i externs<\/strong> que provocaran que aquest proc\u00e9s sigui m\u00e9s r\u00e0pid. Dintre dels interns trobem les alteracions metab\u00f2liques<\/strong>, medicaments <\/strong>i les hormones<\/strong>. Les dones s\u00f3n el grup de poblaci\u00f3 que estan m\u00e9s afectades per elles, que culminen amb la menopausa<\/strong>. A partir d\u2019aqu\u00ed, la pell cau en picat i els signes d\u2019envelliment evolucionen molt m\u00e9s r\u00e0pid\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Anabel<\/a>
Anabel Vaquer, en un moment de la seva presentaci\u00f3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pel que fa als factors externs<\/strong>, la farmac\u00e8utica va agrupar-les en \u201cradiacions<\/strong>, l\u2019alimentaci\u00f3 <\/strong>de cadasc\u00fa, estr\u00e8s i falta de son<\/strong>, tabac<\/strong>, contaminaci\u00f3 <\/strong>i altes temperatures<\/strong>\u201d. Per optimitzar la rutina dels pacients enfront tots aquests factors, \u201cs\u2019ha de comptar amb els exosomes, els p\u00e8ptids i els factors de creixement\u201d, va concloure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El paper de la biotecnologia lligada a la cosm\u00e8tica<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Seguidament, M\u00f3nica Lizondo<\/strong> va fer refer\u00e8ncia a la biotecnologia<\/strong>, \u201ccamp que es basa en l\u2019\u00fas d\u2019organismes vius<\/strong> per obtenir i millorar nous productes o processos de forma sostenible i respectuosa amb el medi ambient i la biodiversitat\u201d. En aquest sentit, va fer refer\u00e8ncia al bacteri Escherichia coli<\/strong>: \u201cper una part pot ser negativa, per\u00f2 si es disposa en determinats dip\u00f2sits industrials <\/strong>i en determinades condicions<\/strong>, \u00e9s capa\u00e7 de sintetitzar la mateixa prote\u00efna id\u00e8ntica que la de les persones\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A continuaci\u00f3, va descriure els diferents organismes vius <\/strong>que s\u2019utilitzen per obtenir nous productes i processos<\/strong>: \u201cQuan parlem de cosm\u00e8tica, existeix la biotecnologia verda<\/strong> lligada a plantes que permet sintetitzar determinats ingredients. Tamb\u00e9 hi ha la biotecnologia blava<\/strong>, que s\u2019usa en organismes del mar o dels llacs, com les algues. Finalment, existeix la biotecnologia blanca<\/strong>, centrada en els processos industrials de fermentaci\u00f3\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"El<\/a>
El paper de la biotecnologia en la cosm\u00e8tica va ser descrit per M\u00f3nica Lizondo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En l\u2019\u00e0mbit industrial, la farmac\u00e8utica va explicar que \u201ces poden fer cr\u00e9ixer aquests bacteris<\/strong>, plantes <\/strong>o fongs <\/strong>en determinades condicions, estressant-los perqu\u00e8 sintetitzin aquelles mol\u00e8cules<\/strong> que normalment adquireixen en el seu h\u00e0bitat natural. Aquestes mol\u00e8cules despr\u00e9s les extraiem i les usem en cosm\u00e8tica<\/strong>, sobretot per potenciar l\u2019efic\u00e0cia dels nostres productes\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finalment, Lizondo va explicar que dins les novetats en actius cosm\u00e8tics, els exosomes <\/strong>tenen un paper fonamental: \u201cAquests components estructurals permeten el rejoveniment <\/strong>i regeneraci\u00f3 cut\u00e0nia<\/strong>, la hidrataci\u00f3 i refor\u00e7 de la barrera cut\u00e0nia<\/strong>, l\u2019acci\u00f3 inflamat\u00f2ria<\/strong> i reparaci\u00f3 de la pell sensible<\/strong> i, finalment, ofereix tractaments pel cuir cabellut i fortalesa capil\u00b7lar<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e8ptids i \u00faltimes tend\u00e8ncies lligades a tractaments est\u00e8tics<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019\u00faltima presentaci\u00f3 va ser realitzada per Monika Heisig,<\/strong> dermat\u00f2loga adjunta del Servei de Dermatologia de l’Hospital Universitari General de Catalunya, que va analitzar les novetats en actius cosm\u00e8tics dels p\u00e8ptids dins la cosm\u00e8tica: \u201cla majoria s\u00f3n biomim\u00e8tics<\/strong>, imiten a p\u00e8ptids naturals <\/strong>i estan sintetitzats al laboratori.<\/strong> Aix\u00f2 genera m\u00e9s estabilitat<\/strong>, penetraci\u00f3 cut\u00e0nia m\u00e9s elevada i duu a terme una acci\u00f3 m\u00e9s espec\u00edfica i predictiva<\/strong>\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pel que fa a les necessitats dels pacients avui dia<\/strong>, Heisig va afirmar que \u201ccada vegada s\u00f3n m\u00e9s conscients de les \u00faltimes tend\u00e8ncies lligades als tractaments est\u00e8tics<\/strong>. Si es miren les tend\u00e8ncies dels \u00faltims cinc anys, es pot observar com existeix un augment significatiu en inter\u00e8s pels p\u00e8ptids\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Monika<\/a>
Monika Heisig va fer refer\u00e8ncia a les \u00faltimes tend\u00e8ncies lligades als tractaments est\u00e8tics.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La dermat\u00f2loga va assegurar que \u201cexisteixen molts pacients que acudeixen a les farm\u00e0cies<\/strong> per demanar consell antiedat<\/strong>, per\u00f2 busquen alternatives no invasives<\/strong>. A causa d\u2019aix\u00f2, ara existeixen opcions lligades a p\u00e8ptids que ofereixen una rutina facial adequada<\/strong>\u201d. Finalment, va explicar que els farmac\u00e8utics \u201chan de distingir entre els pacients que busquen una rutina efica\u00e7 per\u00f2 senzilla i els m\u00e9s exigents, que demanden m\u00e9s complexitat\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Amb el patrocini de:<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

El passat 27 de novembre, el Col\u00b7legi de Farmac\u00e8utics de Barcelona (COFB) va acollir una nova edici\u00f3 del F\u00f2rum Dermoexpert \u201cNovetats i tend\u00e8ncies en actius cosm\u00e8tics\u201d amb el patrocini de Bandi i Segle. La sessi\u00f3 va ser realitzada per Monika Heisig, dermat\u00f2loga adjunta del Servei de Dermatologia de l’Hospital Universitari […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":83028,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"disabled","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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